posted
Saturday - Mike, Brad, my Dad, and I torn down the front axle on my 80 and performed the long overdue maintanance - including bearing replacement and knuckle rebuilding/repacking. It took just under 12 hours to do both sides including wildlife and conewasher fun... I want to thank Mike and Brad for helping and of course my Dad for the use of the heated garage. God I hope to never have to do that again.....
So Joe isn't it about time you did this to your truck? They say repack bearing every 60k and rebuild knuckles every 100k.
Thanks again I owe you both ALOT of beers... Posts: 5484 | From: St. Paul, Mn | Registered: Apr 2002
| IP: Logged |
Ya I didn't get it in this fall, so I'm hoping to push it till spring . I'm pretty confident it was done at 60k, and now due for another at 135k.
How did your Birfs look? Did you take them apart?
Did you redue the trundle(?) bearings on the knuckle assembly. I know that has some shims involved that I don't quite understand yet.
Seem to remember something about the cone washer from doing the FJ40, but whats that and the wildlife part???
Posts: 2469 | From: Anchorage, AK | Registered: Oct 2001
| IP: Logged |
posted
The axle ends looked good. The birfields also looked pretty clean. The only stress I noticed was on the outside of the joint where the balls contact on the inside there was some heat stress. Discoloration is a better term.
The wheel bearings were replaced and we also torn the knuckle down and replaced the top and bottom bearings on that. There is one shim on the top bearing that controls the preload - that was re used. I have noticed the truck turns better now if I am not moving. Before it seemed to stress the power steering when not moving - so maybe I had a bad bearing in one of the knuckles.
"scenery and wilflife fun" - from Vacation
Mike found a way to hit the cone washers on the side with a tampered hammer (to focus all the energy) that worked really good on the 2nd side.
It's not too bad Joe if you have the time you could do it over a weekend and take your time. It's messy and the parts are about $400 is all.
Posts: 5484 | From: St. Paul, Mn | Registered: Apr 2002
| IP: Logged |
posted
I'm not concerned about the procedure and I'm pretty sure I can get the whole thing done by myself in a weekend. Just not gonna try it now with a foot of snow on the ground and its about 22-F..... Will have to wait till we're thawd out.
Posts: 2469 | From: Anchorage, AK | Registered: Oct 2001
| IP: Logged |
posted
It would not be something you would want to do when it's cold out - wait until spring and do a good job. There are several SST special tools you need but we made our own and everything worked out - let me know when you do yours this summer and I can tell you how we replicated a few of the special tools.
Posts: 5484 | From: St. Paul, Mn | Registered: Apr 2002
| IP: Logged |
posted
That's the one big drawback of that semi floating front axle that toyotas have. Especially the birfields but also the IFS trucks. The joints wear out much quicker. I have pulled many birfields out of junkyard minitrucks and samurais with that same heat spoting. Though i am sure it has some effect on strength it probably isnt much. The weird thing is one of the only samurai front axles that i ever pulled apart that did not have those heat spots was the original front axle in my samurai.
I think with respect to the birfield heat spoting it is simply a result of running with the front end hubs lock in at highway speeds.
Posts: 2331 | From: Rosemount | Registered: Mar 2001
| IP: Logged |
posted
Or from a full time 4wheel drive truck with the birfields spinning for 130k miles Posts: 5484 | From: St. Paul, Mn | Registered: Apr 2002
| IP: Logged |
posted
I have the 59mm(size?) bearing nut socket piece from the 40, I think its the same size. I didn't think there were any other special tools needed based on all the writeups I've read.
Posts: 2469 | From: Anchorage, AK | Registered: Oct 2001
| IP: Logged |
posted
Guess I don't consider the torque W. a special tool. From what I've read of the writeups, most people have not had problems with re-using the shims on the trundle bearing (as Klaus did) and have not had to mess with the preload? (although that whole part of the procedure is the most unclear to me, and I'm not sure that I understand whats being talked about with the preload). I don't think I messed with the knuckle on the 40, I just repacked the birf & replaced axle bearings.
Posts: 2469 | From: Anchorage, AK | Registered: Oct 2001
| IP: Logged |
posted
Torque wrench for sure. Preload scale/fish scale not really needed with the FJ80 as you will reuse the same shim (there is only one on the top unlike the FJ40 where there is one on top and one on bottom). Snap ring pliers, seal puller, brass hammer, brass punch, parts washer, bearing packing tool, pickel fork/tie rod tool are some tools you will need. The biggest special tool is to hammer in the new bearings inside the hub. Mike and my Dad used one of the old bearings. They used a grinder to make it slightly smaller and put it on top of the new bearing - then hammered on the old bearing. There were a bunch of other SSTs that were replicated by Mike.
Posts: 5484 | From: St. Paul, Mn | Registered: Apr 2002
| IP: Logged |
Figure I'll just trash the old seal, replace with new....
Hammer & punch... got that.
Bearing packing tool comeon, did you really need this??? I repacked the bearings on the 40 twice and the only tool I needed for that were two hands that got really dirty..... Parts washer = clean bucket with gas in it?
Now the bearing press tool I remember reading about. Thats a good idea using the old bearing. I've also seen a guy just cut a metal disk similar in size (slightly smaller like you said) and bolted a length of metal pipe in the center on one side. This is the only one I thought I might buy for future use.
Do you really NEED to undo the tie-rod ends??? Seems most of the writeups leave it attached. I don't remember undoing that on the 40 either.
So did you just do this now cause you were overdue? Why did you wait till winter?
posted
I guess i do not know personally on an 80series but if it is anything like a 40 (and thus on a smaller scale a minitruck or samurai). I assume when you are saying trundle bearing you are refering to the kingpin bearings. It is highly recomended to replace the kingpin bearings both bottom and top durring knuckle rebuilds. The shims are used to set the preload and you may need more or less shims on bottom and top depending on the new bearings. Similar to how you would set the depth on a pinion bearing. Thus your shim count/thinkness/configuration may be different than the old bearings. Though for the kingpin bearings it is probably not as critical as setting the depth on a pinion bearing.
But if your are not chaging the kingpin bearings it is not that critical that you check the preload and change the shims.
posted
I dont se why you would need to undo the tie rod but again. Ive never torn apart an eighty as i am just assuming it is similar to any other birfield axle.
Posts: 2331 | From: Rosemount | Registered: Mar 2001
| IP: Logged |
quote:Originally posted by Jomama: Guess I don't consider the torque W. a special tool. From what I've read of the writeups, most people have not had problems with re-using the shims on the trundle bearing (as Klaus did) and have not had to mess with the preload? (although that whole part of the procedure is the most unclear to me, and I'm not sure that I understand whats being talked about with the preload). I don't think I messed with the knuckle on the 40, I just repacked the birf & replaced axle bearings.
Tourque wrench shouldnt be a special tool but who knows. The preload is the pre load on the kingpin bearings to help prevent steering shimmy while still alowing the steering to return to center and steer without to much effort.
Posts: 2331 | From: Rosemount | Registered: Mar 2001
| IP: Logged |
posted
I may be confusing terms... I read far too many tech writeups on the 80, but I think they're called trundle bearings on the 80 but I may be mistaken (but we're definitaly talking the same thing).
I'm betting that folks who replace those knuckle bearings where the bearings are still "ok" and can re-use the original shims don't have to deal with the pre-load aspect. But if those bearings happen to fail or be bad better check the preload. Thankfully I've also not read of ANY mishaps with re-using the old shims when the bearings weren't trashed upon removal.
From what I read, the mini actually uses the same birf as the 40/60/62 series on a narrower axle??? approx a 3/4-ton in its 40/60/62 incarnation (not sure what it was on the mini.. 1/4ton??). The 80 birf/axle is a 1-ton, but set up virtually identical to its predecesors. I don't see any difference (other than the ABS sensor) between the 80's repack writeups I've read and what I did on the 40.
Posts: 2469 | From: Anchorage, AK | Registered: Oct 2001
| IP: Logged |
posted
You won't be needing this in the near future Klaus, but I'm putting this here for safe keeping as well, I've a hell of a time finding it on IH8MUD.com, so I wanted to put it somewhere I can find it again. I saved the parts list to a word doc on my puter as well.
This is divided into 3 sections; A, B, and C. Pricing is approximate and was determined by using list prices as of May, 2003.
Section A. Money is no object. This is for those of us that want to do the job one time and want all possible parts on hand. Cost of parts is insignificant.
90313-93003 $27.22 ea x2 Dust Seal 43436-60011 $ 1.14 ea x2 Inner Spindle Gasket 43435-60020 $ 1.03 ea x2 Outer Spindle Gasket 43204-60031 $27.35 ea x2 Dust Seal & wiper Kit 43422-60060 $ 1.51 ea x2 Hub Gasket
90311-62001 $12.02 ea x2 Grease seals for wheel 90310-35010 $ 6.26 ea x2 Inner axle oil seals 09607-60020-01 $32.95 ea x1 54mm hub socket, SST 90366-20003 $22.38 ea x4 Knuckle Bearings & races (Koyo: 30304AJR-2-N Hi cap) 90368-49084-77 $50.90 ea x2 Inner wheel bearings, Timken bearing #JLM104948, race #JLM104910 90368-45087-77 $43.85 ea x2 Outer wheel bearings, Timken bearing #LM102949 , race #LM102910 90215-42025 $ 2.81 ea x2 Tabbed Spindle Lock Washer
43236-60020 $ 1.39 ea x2 0.10mm Knuckle bearing shims for setting preload 43233-60030 $ 2.73 ea x2 0.20mm Knuckle bearing shims for setting preload 43234-60020 $ 3.01 ea x2 0.50mm Knuckle bearing shims for setting preload 43235-60020 $ 4.06 ea x2 1.00mm Knuckle bearing shims for setting preload
90521-34005 $ 2.69 ea x2 C-clip for inner axle to birfield (43411C in the diagram below) 90520-31007 $ 2.57 ea x2 Snap ring for outer axle
Section A assumes you will be replacing wheel bearings and adjusting the knuckle bearing preload. The inner axle will be separated from the birfield for cleaning so you will need the C-clip. The birfields will be swapped from left to right side to extend their life. A hub socket is in the list of parts because this is intended to be for the person that wants a complete kit.
Section B. Do the job right. This is for those of us that insist on using the best parts available. This is the first or the second service for your vehicle. Many parts will be cleaned and reused.
90313-93003 $27.22 ea x2 Dust Seal 43436-60011 $ 1.14 ea x2 Inner Spindle Gasket 43435-60020 $ 1.03 ea x2 Outer Spindle Gasket 43204-60031 $27.35 ea x2 Dust Seal & wiper Kit 43422-60060 $ 1.51 ea x2 Hub Gasket 90215-42025 $ 2.81 ea x2 Tabbed Spindle Lock Washer 90520-31007 $ 2.57 ea x2 Snap ring for outer axle
90311-62001 $12.02 ea x2 Grease seals for wheel 90310-35010 $ 6.26 ea x2 Inner axle oil seals 90366-20003 $22.38 ea x4 Knuckle Bearings & races (Koyo: 30304AJR-2-N Hi cap)
Section B assumes you will inspect and reuse the wheel bearings, and many other parts. The inner axle will not be seperated from the birfield for thorough cleaning or for swapping the birfields from left to right sides. You will borrow a hub socket if you don't have one. The knuckle bearing preload will not be adjusted and the shims will be reused.
Section C. Do the job at minimum cost. This is for those of us that need to save every possible penny and will risk a premature failure to conserve money. This may be the 2nd, 3rd, or 4th axle service for your vehicle. Most parts will be cleaned and reused.
90313-93003 $27.22 ea x2 Dust Seal 43436-60011 $ 1.14 ea x2 Inner Spindle Gasket 43435-60020 $ 1.03 ea x2 Outer Spindle Gasket 43204-60031 $27.35 ea x2 Dust Seal & wiper Kit 43422-60060 $ 1.51 ea x2 Hub Gasket
90310-35010 $ 6.26 ea x2 Inner axle oil seals
Section C assumes you will inspect and reuse the knuckle bearings, and many other parts. The inner axle will not be seperated from the birfield for thorough cleaning or for swapping the birfields from left to right sides. You will borrow a hub socket if you don't have one. You may elect to reuse or make your own 60011, 60060, & 60020 gaskets. The inner wheel bearings will not be removed or inspected.
There is a kit from Toyota that contains the seals and gaskets for both sides. This kit is priced higher than the individual pieces. Therefore, the above lists contain the individual parts rather than the kit.
04434-60051 $201.03 ea x1 Master Front Axle Gasket Kit, both sides
The 04434-60051 consists of the following part numbers: 90313-93003 $27.22 ea x2 Dust Seal 43436-60011 $ 1.14 ea x2 Inner Spindle Gasket 43435-60020 $ 1.03 ea x2 Outer Spindle Gasket 43204-60031 $27.35 ea x2 Dust Seal & wiper Kit 43422-60060 $ 1.51 ea x2 Hub Gasket
Total $116.50 versus $201.03 for the kit, same stuff.
The bearing manufacturer part numbers were listed where available. These can be sourced from many places, including your Toyota dealer. Get the best price you can as long as it is the same part.
posted
So did you swap the outer parts of the birfield to the opposite side??? (I've read that about half the pep's do this to even out wear on the birf... but then you HAVE to take them apart) So how was getting the snap ring back on to hold the two parts of the birfield together. I don't think I took this apart on the 40. I've read it can be a real PITA. Its not a necessity as the birf can be cleaned repacked with out taking apart, just needs to be done if you want to swap the birfs.
Posts: 2469 | From: Anchorage, AK | Registered: Oct 2001
| IP: Logged |
Did you clean up your Diff breathers, and do the extension mod????
Guess a common problem is the diff breather gets completely clogged, diff oil heats up, hot diff oil creates enough pressure to bust thru the axle seals (even new ones), diff oil pollutes axle grease and bearings can burn up really quick.
Theres a good writeup on Ih8mud if you search "Diff breathers". Involves getting rid of the one-way valve which clogs over time, and running small rubber hose up into the engine compartment to better waterproof your diffs.
Posts: 2469 | From: Anchorage, AK | Registered: Oct 2001
| IP: Logged |
I haven't extended my diff breathers yet but I was looking at them while we did the bearings.
Did not take apart the birfields - so they were not swapped side to side.
Tie rods were detached so that the entire knuckle could be cleaned easier (in the tub of gas). If you were really careful you could probably get away with out doing it. Makes it easier to replace the knuckle bearings.
We found one of the wheel bearing was discolored due to heat stress but the others looked fine.
Posts: 5484 | From: St. Paul, Mn | Registered: Apr 2002
| IP: Logged |
posted
Did the breathers look pretty clean & functional?
It seems that the one way valve (keeps water out/lets pressure/heat escape) was a good idea in concept. But wont work right once it gets thoroughly plugged up with crap, hence creating the pressure prob. Seems like you could create one that was somehow self cleaning (like the shaker-jet on MSR backpacking stoves if you know what that is), and still have the oneway valve function to keep the water out.
Posts: 2469 | From: Anchorage, AK | Registered: Oct 2001
| IP: Logged |
UBBFriend: Email this page to someone!
Printer-friendly view of this topic
![[Razz]](tongue.gif)
![[beer]](graemlins/beer.gif)
![[notworthy]](graemlins/notworthy.gif)
![[Frown]](frown.gif)
. I'm pretty confident it was done at 60k, and now due for another at 135k.
![[Smile]](smile.gif)
![[Confused]](confused.gif)
![[lol]](graemlins/lol.gif)
![[Wink]](wink.gif)
comeon, did you really need this??? ![[Roll Eyes]](rolleyes.gif)
The preload is the pre load on the kingpin bearings to help prevent steering shimmy while still alowing the steering to return to center and steer without to much effort.
![[Eek!]](eek.gif)
![[jester]](graemlins/jester.gif)
